Only one thing can cause a popping sound inside a circuit breaker, and that's arcing electricity. Whether it's happening because of loose connections, worn insulation or faulty circuit breakers, it needs the immediate attention of an electrician. The popping noise is an indication of a dangerous situation that can cause a fire. Inside the breaker box, each electrical circuit is routed through a circuit breaker designed to trip if the current exceeds its rating.
Popping sounds usually aren't coming from the breakers, however, but from the wire connections. An electrician may have failed to properly tighten the lug on a wire, or the wire insulation may have degraded. Electricity can travel like lightning through the air from exposed wire to another metal surface, and it produces the same crackling sound. Arcing electricity also is as hot as lightning and easily can start a fire. In many cases, the popping happens when you turn on a particular appliance, so until you can get an electrician to come to your house, avoid using that appliance.
In any case, don't go near the panel.
The electrician has the appropriate protective gear and insulated tools to safely open the panel door, diagnose and fix the problem. It's likely the arcing electricity has melted some components in the panel, and they may need replacing, as well as the panel itself if it is old and has sustained damage.
Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies. Skip to main content. Home Guides Home Home Improvement. Home Guides Home Home Improvement Popping inside the breaker box can come from worn wire connections.
Arcing Electricity Inside the breaker box, each electrical circuit is routed through a circuit breaker designed to trip if the current exceeds its rating. What to Do In many cases, the popping happens when you turn on a particular appliance, so until you can get an electrician to come to your house, avoid using that appliance.
About the Author Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Customer Service Newsroom Contacts.Your scalding terminal is the problem. The current across this connection is what causes it to heat up. Usually you will hear sizzling indicating an arc is occurring rapidly draining your battery, arcing also destroys the connection further increasing voltage dropped there. Th clicking noise is a relay failing to pick due to low voltage in electrical system.
fuse box makes clicking sound and car wont start?
If the negative terminal is hot after a lot of cranking, that might be possible, although more typically it's the positive terminal that gets hot. If the negative terminal is hot when you haven't been cranking the starter, then something strange is happening. It could be an internal short in the battery, but I would expect that to make a total exit pretty quick and leave you with nothing.
Assuming it is not the battery, did you add some high powered stereo equipment? The clicking noise you are hearing sounds like a relay kicking in and out.
I don't know Mini's but most cars have relays for lights and other high draw circuits. So it sounds like a high draw circuit is kicking in. The fuel pump is one of those types of circuits and you will generally hear it kick in all of the time when you first turn the key on. If you just turn the key on and hear it and then the negative cable on the battery gets hot, I'd vote for a short in either the fuel pump, starter or headlight circuit.
The forum link below is a discussion about the ground.
Bottom line is it's good from the factory. Others have mentioned that the positive cable nut is known for coming loose. You should double check that, since it would cause issues. You might want to go to the forum below, join and post your question as it will have folks with Mini experience. Usually those forums are free to join. That is almost certainly a bad battery. Trucks need pretty heavy jumper cables to start them when the battery is bad; ordinary passenger car jumper cables will get charge into a good battery but don't help much in jumping a truck with a bad battery.
In the same way, if the car used as a jump has a 4 cylinder engine Your car is in security mode turn your factory key in the driver's door left right left to difuse the security if you don't have a factory key remove the key slot and look for the number to order a new one there's a couple more methods like restarting the computer by taking off the battery cables for about 5 minutes then reclamp and the car should start y'all are lucky just got a jeep for the mountains and I have to hot wire it to start took me a whole day to resolve this issue and I now I'm just ordering a key.
Take your car to a mechanic and have them do a diagnostic on it. It could be several different things like a loose wire, blown fuse, the computer in the car, etc.
Bring it to a mechanic, you have a grounding problem and you may cause further damage to the electrical components by fire or electrical shorts or even to yourself if you start messing with it. If you have towing service for free take advantage of it or have it towed to a local shop that will tow it in for free.
Answer Save. The current across this connection is what causes it to heat up Usually you will hear sizzling indicating an arc is occurring rapidly draining your battery, arcing also destroys the connection further increasing voltage dropped there. Paul R Lv 4. Good luck. Cynthia Lv 4. Ronald Johnson.Car wouldn't start, even after trying to jump it. Took the battery to AutoZone, and was told needed new one. Bought new battery, installed and still wont start.
Tested voltage and am getting Could you point me in the right direction, or tell me how to test before hand what it might be? Thank you in advance! Do you. Hello, I'm Danny.
Will not start, clicking from fuse box
Yes, if you are hearing a click sound from under the hood with a no start condition it sounds like the starter motor solenoid may be defective.
If you take the starter to your local auto parts store they will test for free. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros. Was this answer. Welcome to 2CarPros. First, it could be a few things.
Since you hear a clicking from the fuse box, It's unlikely that it's a fuse, but lets confirm that. Under the hood in the fuse box, locate the 40 amp ign2 fuse. That is the fuse that sends power to the starter relay. See pictures 1 and 2 If the fuse is good, we need to check the starter relay. It is located under the hood in the power distribution box.
See pic 3. If you see a different relay in the box with the same part number, switch them to see if it makes a difference. It isn't hard, but will require a test light or voltmeter to check. On the starter, you will find a large wire that runs direct from the battery positive. It will always have battery voltage. There will be a smaller wire that is on the solenoid S terminal. The smaller wire only gets power when the key is in the start position.
That is what needs checked, so you will need a helper to turn the key while you check. If you find there is 12v to the S terminal smaller wire and the larger wire is connected to the battery and the starter doesn't engage, the starter is bad.
Remember, the battery must be disconnected prior to working on the starter. Removal Pic 4 Starter 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.Do you have the same problem? Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. The truck will not start until the clicking noise stops. On colder days I have to wait for over twenty minutes for the clicking noise to stop.
Anyone know whats going on here? Was this answer helpful? If you feel the top of the relays, you should be able to feel the clicking.
Try replacing that relay. You should be able to switch it out with another one from the box. Just make sure the part number is the same. Let me know if you have questions. Joe Was this answer helpful? When I pull both of them out the noise stops. I have switched the relays around all have same part number and still the clicking noise was still happening. I also bought new relays and still nothing, the fuse box still makes the clicking noise. I live in Massachusetts, so now the truck will not start at all because it is so cold.
The fuse box still starts to click but it will not stop now because it is so cold. Any other ideas? If you have found out any new information please post it.
Any luck in a fix? Year same exact problem. Thanks anyone for response. Are there any driveability issues? I need more info. Then it starts Was this answer helpful? I'm just trying to figure out if it cranks good and won't start, or it won't even crank?
The fuel pump in the tank runs but it wont get fuel to engine until the clicking stops Was this answer helpful? By placing your hand on the suspect relay, maybe you can feel the vibrations when it is clicking, to pinpoint which relay.
If there are multiple relays, sometimes, they are the same and you can swap relays. I can't see your relays from here, you have to decide if they are the same.
If the problem is the wiring circuit to the relay, swapping won't help anything. Did you check for trouble codes?The breaker box fuse box in my house is making loud clicking sounds maybe twice a week for the past month or so. It lasts for minutes and turning appliences off doesn't seem to help it at all. It's a very loud sound and I'm starting to worry about it. Sound like a lose neutral wire, get it tightened as the sound is arcing and whilst that is happening it will be doubling the voltage, hence the sound, it can catch fire so get an electrician out to it.
If turning off appliances doesn't help, it seems to me it may be a faulty electricity meter, if there was arcing in the fusebox I think you'd smell it. Whatever the problem is, you should get an electrician in to fix it. You've got a breaker on the verge of "letting go". If you open the box while it's going on, you will be able to see, or at least feel, which one it is.
I'd let the owner know, and ask for a repairman. If landlord refuses, say you're going to have the fire dept come over to assure you it's safe to sleep there. That should get things moving.
It's a rented home so I don't know if this is a persistant problem. I was just wondering if this could be a fire hazard. Answer Save. JOHN H. Sound like a lose neutral wire, get it tightened as the sound is arcing and whilst that is happening it will be doubling the voltage, hence the sound, it can catch fire so get an electrician out to it The sound will worsen as more power is demanded, does this sound right to you is it familier? Still have questions?
Get answers by asking now.Remember Me? Site Navigation. So yesterday i noticed my wifes limited was making a clicking sound from under the hood.
Member's Picture Albums. Was it clicking when you were trying to start it, or was it just clicking on it's own key in, key out? A nearly dead battery will click when you turn the key, but won't turn over the engine.
Originally Posted by Nelsonmd. Originally Posted by NorcalChris. Originally Posted by HiluxHunter. In this case there must have been something that was trying to engage through a relay But if the lights were on the "off" position and there was still clicking happening from the relay box, you can always take the lid off the box and there should be a diagram of what the relays are; the way to find exactly what relay it is would be to touch each one and you will be able to feel it.
Then change that relay. Last edited by NorcalChris; at AM. If it is clicking, I would think the relay is fine.Rapid clicking when trying to start car. Fixed
You can always test it by swapping for an identical relay there are usually more than one of each in the box. That way you don't have to buy a new one until you are sure there's a problem with it. Hey did you ever get a fix for this problem. When I go outside to the parking lot in afternoon from work, I hear a very distinct clicking noise from about feet away. Key is in my pocket, battery is almost dead, not enough juice to unlock doors with remote.
When I raise the hood, I once heard the noise from around the starter relay, but the second time I noticed it was actually coming from the horn, like the alarm had gone off, and sounded until the battery was dead, the plus kept hitting the horn just enough to make the clicking noise.
Both times, I boosted it drove off and it was fine for a few weeks.
The third time it happened, the noise stopped after I unlocked all the doors with the key and put the key in the ignition. Battery still dead. Two guesses. Either the starter relay is sticking until it kill the battery or the alarm is going off until it kills the battery.
Why would the alarm not reset in a minute??? Any Idea's The problem does not seem to be going away. I know this is a rather old post, however, should someone come across this thread again, here's a possible solution. Toyota automobiles use a key sensing ignition switch, the purpose of which is to inform things like the radio, climate control or ECU that a key has been detected and that they need to prepare for coming on line as the driver is about to start the automobile.
Fuse box locations?
However, from time to time this key sensing switch can fail and falsely command on certain relays, head and ECU to name a few. As their respective systems are not powered or grounded, the relay cannot stay powered before it becomes too warm and is kicked off line and this cycle is rapidly repeated. This will happen intermittently at first and will eventually become more prevalent as the switch becomes more worn.
This can most certainly run the battery down over time. It is important to note that this switch is not the same as the ignition switch which actually starts the car and is in no way related to proper starter motor function. To test for this condition, when the clicking sound is heard, place the key in the ignition and the noise should immediately stop.
This part will have to be ordered from a specialty parts store or from the dealer directly. BB code is On.Automotive Forums. Why would my "fuse box" be clicking? Ok this is a new thread to an old post, on a 98 plymouth voyager.
clicking noise in the fusebox?
We thought the battery was dead but before we jumped it, it started on it's on. When I turned it off it started clicking and my door thingy was dinging. My key was NOT in the switch. My husband pulled relay 13 out of the fuse box under the dash. Everything stopped then.
It was burnt. With it dark and raining we couldn't fool with it very long. I'm assuming there is a short somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start? Also all the "old" transmission symptoms and no speedometer, ect are still going on. Is there a connection maybe. Am I missing something? Any and all advice appreciated. Clicking relays are a classic sign of a week battery. Get it charged and load tested if it's 4 years old or less. Above that buy a new battery. Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
Hearing the chime go off with the key out - ditto. The BCM is powered by the battery at all times. Can you give us a link to your original thread? Was I told wrong? Thanks a bunch for your help. A low battery will not cause it to start by itselfyou either have a short some where, or the fuse box is bad or maybe the ignition switch is gone.